Polpetto: The Darling of Berwick Street

polpetto carol sachs
Photography courtesy of Carol Sachs via polpetto.co.uk Words by Shaun Cooney

Polpetto is Polpo’s older sister. The food is served in the same style we have come to expect from owner Russell Norman; order what you want and eat it whenever it arrives, but the food is entirely different. Walking through the door the difference isn’t noticeably obvious. There are still low hanging light bulbs, the bar man is still wearing a backwards baseball cap and tables are close and intimate. But it’s who’s in charge of the kitchen pass downstairs that makes Polpetto different from the rest.

Leading the kitchen downstairs is Florence Knight who has picked up exactly where she left off from above the French House. Each dish comprising of three ingredients, they are all packed full of flavour and every mouthful is a treat. Everything from the pureed beetroot, goats curd and sorrel to the mussels and orange. The flavours of each dish are perfectly balanced so they each work exquisitely together and equally on their own. The Burrata, chili and samphire can be devoured by the fork full and a stand out side dish of oak leaf and pistachio blows my taste buds away.

Florence Knight has made a name for Polpetto away from the Polpo brand and I for one am glad, as much as I love the Polpo restaurants Polpetto goes to show that it’s not a tired brand formula and still has the ability to bring exciting, different restaurants to the conversation.

Florence Knight by Carol Sachs

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