The Roundup: LFW Day 4

Untitled-17Photography by Words by Elizabeth Pollard

Day 4 at London Fashion Week was a day of big names and even bigger presentations, here’s just a taste of what was on show:

Christopher Kane opened his collection by taking the ultimate fashion challenge literally; making clothes out of bin bags… Well not exactly. But his light PVC detailing on ruched hems, sleeves and busts of garments mimicked that texture. Embroidered lace techniques that we saw in 2013 have developed to incorporate paisley and gothic floral designs. Kane takes the collection on a journey from PVC, fur, gradients of crystal embellishment, impressions of dried pressed flowers, embroidered and finally to end his enormous 56 piece collection; fanned sheets of organza in geometric shapes to create patterns that evolve with movement.

Untitled-1Christopher Kane AW14

London has been hit with a big Japanese influence this year, however at Erdem it was much more of a statement with brocade floral fabrics. In more ways than one Erdem and Kane’s presentation resembled in fabric and design techniques, though silhouette was far less of a statement this time around. Off the shoulder dresses, high necks and dresses with pockets were the defining features of the clothes, all embellished with beads, foils and crush velvet.

Untitled-12Erdem AW14

Colour clash: check. Tiled prints: check. Layers of texture: check! Peter Pilotto has nailed the look of AW14 but with his own, very familiar approach. Digital mountainous prints compliment colour blocked dresses but this time with far a less abstract shape and aesthetic; modest calf skimming, drop waist dresses were the look of the day but with a variety of necklines that once again felt a traditionally Japanese influence.

Untitled-13Peter Pilotto AW14

The prints on display at Issa almost resemble the thick acrylic lines of Keith Haring’s pop art paintings. Light hearted details in the form of bows and pom poms bring the simple silhouettes to life and steer the collection away from being just another collection to hit all of this season’s trends.

Untitled-14Issa AW14

Christopher Bailey’s show for Burberry took a sharp turn from his last few seasons of perspex, foil and graphic prints into a sea of bohemian scarf dresses printed with watercolour tribal patterns and paisley floral designs. Shearling jackets moved away from the biker fit of the last few years and took influence from the 60’s; embroidered and painted with flowers. The only trends to appear at the Hyde Park venue were to style coats and throws on one shoulder and the palette of burgundy, forest and dark sand. Elsewhere, Bailey marched this collection firmly to his own beat.

Untitled-16Burberry AW14

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