Toast E.D

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Words by Shaun Cooney

Lordship Lane is going through a bit of a change, the family run East Dulwich Deli has closed down, the Brixton pizzaria Franco Manca’s is due to open it’s third site here and Green and Blue has transformed into Toast.E.D; a delightful wine shop serving small plates.

Toast.E.D has an impressive wine list with options by the glass and also a choice from the enormous wine vats in the restaurant, where a beautiful Cote du Rhone came in at under £13 for a bottle. A wine list the size of the one here can be pretty daunting, but organised in groups like ‘Riesling & crisp friends’ and ‘Juice! and Gamay’ finding something to enjoy for a low price can be surprisingly easy.

The real star for me here was the food. Using the all too common format of small plates. But they have managed to create some amazing delicious mouthfuls – mouthfuls are exactly how they need to be eaten. Each of the dishes are elegantly dressed bringing together simple flavour combinations. Tomato, strawberry, shiso and ricotta was an oddly sweet start to the meal followed by fennel, burnt leeks, dil and hazelnuts gave a crunchy contrast. The highlight had to be desert which offered cherries, buttermilk, beetroot and chocolate that left me wanting more.

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